For this finish, Mendoza created a gentle slanted sideburn in a way to honor his father’s impact on the set of Star Trek.
1. Begin the foil placement in the previously color-treated area. Pull fi ne diagonal slices out from along the parietal and place on foil. Alternate two shades: Soma Color 8RO strawberry blonde and 7C medium copper blonde, both blended with 10-volume developer.
2. Alternate up over the top of the head, continuing in ½-inch sections, and keeping ½-inch off scalp. Place foil on top of foil for a clean fi nish.
3. Blend the remaining color in the bowls to create a new shade.
4. Using a comb to assist in saturation and blending, apply this new shade to the remaining hair, in between foils and at the base of each foil.
5. Process for 35 minutes at room temperature, rinse and condition the hair, according the manufacturer’s instructions. Shampooing will open the cuticle, so rinse only. The color is pH-regulated, and the conditioner is 3.5 so it closes the cuticle to a neutral 5.
6. Before cutting, section the hair in a “Chevron” shape as shown, from temple to just below the occipital. The Chevron parting will leave a softer, more feminine fi nish, leaving a fuller crown and length toward the front and back.
7. Cut from long to short. Use a 4.5 guard and blend up from the nape to the occipital.
8. Bend ear forward and cut up behind the ear.
9. Return to the nape, angle a number 2 guard at 90° to clean up and blend the nape.
10. Go to the front of the ear and create the desired line, for a woman, anything other than square. In this case, create a soft slant forward.
11. Blend the back and front of the ear by connecting over the top. Defi ne the line at the nape, cutting a gentle V shape.
12. At the front, take 1-inch horizontal sections and direct to the side. Elevate slightly and cut to the desired length. Repeat on the other side.
13. Then take both sides and pull straight up, over the top of the head. Cut to connect.
14. To texturize, direct over to the side and “brush cut” by running the clipper, without the guard, over the ends of the hair sticking out of the comb. Mendoza always uses a contrasting comb color from the hair’s color to make it easier to see.