Hair: Gerard Caruso
Assisted by: Danielle Herkloz, Stylist at Salon G Hair and Color Spa
Photography: Roberto Ligresti
Make-up: David Maderich for M.A.C. Cosmetics
Fashion styling: Carlton Jones
Vibrant shades continue to be on trend, offering fun finishes on just about any silhouette.
These strong colors can be placed throughout the hair, on the tips or even in hidden pieces that pop as the hair moves.
Gerard Caruso, Rusk Global Artistic Director, is having fun with Rusk’s Deepshine Direct, a newly launched direct-dye pigmented color that he is using to create touches of color on his clientele.
“There are so many ways to use the color,” he says, “either directly on the hair in carefully placed areas, or on wefts that I sell to clients as custom-colored highlights designed just for them. It’s a nice service, especially for cut-a-thons or charitable events.”
Caruso notes that the wefts must be human hair to take the color properly.
Available in five intense shades (pink, red, yellow, purple, teal), Deepshine Direct also offers a white to be used to eliminate brassy shades or soften the power shades. “The hair must be pre-lightened when using this color,” Carusa says. “In addition, colorists can vary the shade intensity based on how heavily the hair has been prelightened. I also mix shades to get different colors, like mixing yellow and red to get orange. Just use a color wheel—there are endless possibilities.”
Prelightening and Cutting
1. In ½-inch sections apply Rusk Deepshine Blonde Lightening Cream with 20-volume Deepshine Shine Enhancing Cream Developer to lift the new growth. Apply to the line of demarcation.
2. While processing, apply Hydrate Deepshine Color Care Conditioner from mid-shaft to ends. Process, then shampoo and condition.
3. Section from the top of the brow to the temple on the far side. Begin the cut on the larger side. Take 1-inch vertical sections, hold the hair straight out and cut to follow shape of the head.
4. Blend around to the opposite side, using a traveling guide.
5. Define the line around the ear.
6. Texturize pre-cut sections using a 35-tooth texturizing blade to create a soft, velvety effect. Lift horizontal sections out slightly with a comb and run the shear over the ends.
7. Once the interior has been completed, release the top section and comb hair to natural fall. Take 1-inch diagonal sections to the heavier side. Hold hair straight up and cut to the guide using a straight blade.
8. Continue to add texture to the ends, breaking up any solid line. Take 1-inch sections, pull straight up and blend the ends with a texturizing blade to create a seamless flow.
9. Add final touches concentrating along the hairline, blending into the ear.
1. Blend desired jewel-tone shades in separate bowls, in this case purple Deepshine Direct Purple and Teal.
2. Working on dry hair, take a crescent-shaped section two inches into the hairline. On a diagonal, take two elongated triangles, one larger than the other. Place a fine slice on foil and apply the purple.
3. Working with back-to-back foils, take fine slices, place on foil and apply the shade using brush and bowl. Stay ½-inch off scalp feathering to the root.
4. Cover with foil (do not fold). Place five foils of purple, back to back.
5. Follow with five back-to-back foils of Deepshine Direct Teal.
6. Apply texturizing cream between foils to protect from bleeding.
7. Process for 25 minutes at room temperature. Rinse with cool water.
Products and Tools
Color: Rusk Deepshine Direct
Shampoo and conditioner: Rusk Deepshine Color, Deepshine Hydrate
Shears: Rusk Gamma and Delta
Styling products: Rusk Wired
Blow dryer: Rusk CTC
Nails: OPI’s Not Like the Movies
Make-up: Bluffajo Sweet Eye Eye Shader; Mirabella lip pencil and gloss