At a recent seminar at the Repechage headquarters in Secaucus, NJ, Repechage founder and skin care expert Lydia Sarfati was teaching advanced techniques to 35 estheticians from around the world. When asked what would be one of the most important skills a new artist should learn from the beginning, Sarfati didn't skip a beat. "I actually have a few pet peeves," she said, "but one that needs constant re-training is facial massage. I am stunned how many estheticians really do not know how to do it properly. It is one of our most popular training videos (all can be found on www.repechage.com)
Apply a massage cream to the face and décolleté to provide the ideal glide to perform a proper facial massage. Apply the cream in light upward and outward strokes. These strokes improve circulation in the blood vessels near the surface of the skin. Once you begin Effleurage, your hands must never leave the face.
This compression technique includes kneading, squeezing and pinching. This friction affects the deeper muscle tissue of the face. First, crisscross massage toward the hairline and repeat to the middle of the forehead moving toward the bridge of the nose. Bridge over the right eyebrow to the temple and then return to the same spot by the hairline. Repeat the entire process over the left eyebrow to the left temple.
Now, using your middle fingers you are going to use Effleurage again, this time in circular movements around the eyes. Move in circles going from the outside of the eye, underneath the eye and towards the bridge of the nose, and then up and around the eyebrow back towards the temple.
Still using Effleurage, begin figure 8’s around the eyes. Keep your thumb of the opposite hand on the center of the client’s forehead and use your opposite index finger to create large figure 8’s around the eyes. Repeat three times and switch hands and repeat the entire process.
5.) Effleurage- Step Up
Place your index and middle fingers on the bridge of the nose and use a slight pressure to “step-up” to the corrigator. Your middle fingers go under the brows and apply the pressure to the motor points, your index fingers run up to the corrigator.
This highly stimulating movement should be used very sparingly. This is a shaking movement and it is performed over areas of broad muscle mass. Holding the head steady with one hand and working with the other, start at the temple with the ring finger. As you move across the forehead, add your middle finger then remove ending with your pointer finger at the opposite temple. Repeat back and fourth three times.