
Rodrick Samuels on The Silent Work, Modern Beauty Education and Why Empathy Wins
MODERN SALON sat down with Samuels to discuss the book, beauty education, mentorship and the habits that help beauty professionals thrive.
We are just movin’ right along! We’re all done with color now—and wow, my brain feels like mush. I absolutely love color—so much!—but it’s ridiculous how much chemistry and math is involved in color theory.

We are just moving right along! We're all done with color now—and wow, my brain feels like mush. I absolutely love color so much! but it's ridiculous how much chemistry and math is involved in color theory.
In class, we learned that certain colors are believed to increase people's appetites, while other colors help people relax, and some others help people concentrate longer. Crazy!
Most clients think about hair color in terms of shades and simple patterns, such as blonde, brown, red, highlights and so on. But, as a true designer, Pivot Point teaches us to extend our knowledge of hair color past these basic terms.
So, we began color theory by putting hair color in context with the entire design, weighing color options against existing sculpted form and texture. As an editor, I realize how dramatic hair color can be—everyday I see beautiful hair collections that blow me away. I think to myself, "Wow, how did they do that!?" So, of course, I try to replicate it, and totally fail. "Why can't I do that? How did they get their blondes so blonde? Their reds so vibrant?" Color Theory at Pivot Point taught me that not only are hair color results about the range of color options, but results rely heavily on color placement and pattern selection. Based on the patterns and the color placement you choose, you can visually change or enhance the form a design; visually change or enhance the texture of a design; and create a focal point while leading the eye through a design.
Heree's a bit of what we learned in class:
We started with the blonde area of our color quadrant. Scary stuff, huh? She looks like she just had some crazy facial surgery. That's what I'll call this mannequinn Joan Rivers!

blonde-surgery
So I used Wella's Koleston Perfect color to take Joan Rivers' blonde quadrant to a red.

color-tube

color-red
Here's how she turned out! Yeah, I don't think I let the color process long enough. My biggest challenge is having the patience to site there and wait it out. I just get SO excited to see the color change!

red-quad
Then we took the blonde quadrant, and bleached her up to a light blonde using Blondor Lightening Powder. We only lightened the midstrand to ends, hence the cotton, then went back in to do the base.

blonde-before

blonde-touch
Here's Joan Rivers' finished result. We didn't have much time at the end of class to give her a pretty blow out—but I promise it looked nice : )

blonde-after
Here is my first foil! Ah!! I was so excited. I always thought it was so cool the way Adrienne Rogers, National Technical Training Director for Product Club, folded foils. I watched her webinar, glued to the screen, trying to see how she did it. Finally did it for myself! That was exciting!

first-foil
We used Blondor for the foils. I love Blondor because you can add the powder and then the developer and it doesn't begin to oxidize until you mix it... awesome!

full-highlight

highlights-side

blondor

horizontal-foil
Then we used another mannequin head to do an all-over color with Wella's Koleston Perfect 5/75 Light Brown/Brown Red Violet. Here is the before and after.

mannequin-before

mannequin-after
Then, the fabulous Ms. Marie told us to pick out a color to give it some highlights! I chose Wella's Color Touch 6/4. Here's how it turned out!
Not too shabby, huh!?!? Then we moved on to do a full highlight/lowlight.

ashigh

highlow
THEN!!!! I finally felt confident (ish) enough to do a touch-up on Mena's color. Mena has an all-over color with some bright purple Pravana purple highlights. It is SO cool, but my hands were shaking like crazy during the service.

koleston-mena

pravana-mena
Seriously, I was so nervous! I hadn't applied color to a real person's head in ages. And, back then, I was using boxed color (gasp!) and applying it from a bottle!

mena-apply
Mena was such a good sport about the whole thing—she calmed me down and even let me take these "After" shots!

mena-process

mena-side
That's it for color theory! Stay tuned for men's cuts!
As always, thanks for your ongoing support,
Alison
xoxox

MODERN SALON sat down with Samuels to discuss the book, beauty education, mentorship and the habits that help beauty professionals thrive.

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