
Rodrick Samuels on The Silent Work, Modern Beauty Education and Why Empathy Wins
MODERN SALON sat down with Samuels to discuss the book, beauty education, mentorship and the habits that help beauty professionals thrive.
Alisha Jared (@alishajaredhairartistry) from Siren Salon in Vancouver, WA, has been seeing this client for 6 months and "she has been everything from a level 4 red-violet to a 'Little Mermaid' red. When she came in and said ...

Alisha Jared (@alishajaredhairartistry) from Siren Salon in Vancouver, WA, has been seeing this client for 6 months and "she has been everything from a level 4 red-violet to a 'Little Mermaid' red. When she came in and said she wanted her blonde back I knew I had my job cut out for me. Her bright red had faded slightly so I used that to my advantage."
SESSION 1:
STEP 1: Section into 5 sections. (2 sides, top, 2 sections in back) Foil all the hair with baby lights using Wella Blondor and 10 volume starting in the back and ending at the front, adjusting developers as you go. "I ended on the top panel with a 30 volume.")
STEP 2: Process 30-40 minutes at room temperature lifting to level 6 red/orange. Shampoo with Davines Nou Nou Shampoo.
STEP 3: Glaze at the bowl with Joico Chrome A7=A5=N6 and Joico Chrome Activator 2:1 ratio. Watch until desired tone is reached. Condition with Davines Nou Nou conditioner. Apply Joico Kpak cuticle sealer for 5 minutes. "This brought us to a beautiful, blended rose gold."

after session one
SESSION 2:
STEP 1: Section into the same 5 sections. Baby light all the hair using Wella Blondor with 10 volume on any pieces that were previously lightened and 20 volume on anything that hasn't been lightened yet. End on the top panel using 10 volume on previously lightened and 30 volume on anything still red.
STEP 2: Process 30 minutes at room temperature.
STEP 3: While processing, touch up root area with formula A: Joico Chrome 40g N6 + 30g A7 + 140 g Joico Chrome Activator (ratio 2:1). Pull through on any hair left out of foils.
STEP 4: Process 10 minutes then open foils and melt Formula A slightly on top of lightener to create a "shadow root" effect and a seamless blend. Process 10 more minutes at room temperature.
STEP 5: Shampoo with Pureology Strength Cure. Mix formula B: 20 g A7 + 20 g N9 and formula C: 20 g A7 + 5g A5 + 25g N6. with Chrome Activator (ratio 2:1). Apply this formula to any areas around face or areas that lifted the brightest.
STEP 6: Apply Formula C to any areas that are red/orange. Watch until desired tone is achieved. Condition with Pureology Strength Cure Conditioner. Rinse. Apply Joico Kpak Cuticle Sealer for 5 minutes. Rinse. Apply Joico Kpak Intense Hydrator for 5 minutes. Rinse. Style with Davines MOMO potion and finish with Davines oil non oil to smooth.
"The total time of both appointments was 9.5 hours. I knew I needed to take it slow and steady to preserve her already fine, fragile hair. We are still aiming for brighter blonde, but we have tackled the red and it's all down hill from here!"

MODERN SALON sat down with Samuels to discuss the book, beauty education, mentorship and the habits that help beauty professionals thrive.

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