
Rodrick Samuels on The Silent Work, Modern Beauty Education and Why Empathy Wins
MODERN SALON sat down with Samuels to discuss the book, beauty education, mentorship and the habits that help beauty professionals thrive.
Maggie Ly (@HairstyLust)) of Davids Hair and Nails, Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada loves to work with long hair. "I work with long hair, mostly Asian hair," she says. "Many of my clients come to me looking for hairstyles that are ...

Maggie Ly (@HairstyLust)) of Davids Hair and Nails, Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada loves to work with long hair. "I work with long hair, mostly Asian hair," she says. "Many of my clients come to me looking for hairstyles that are on Caucasian hair. Most of them don't understand that it needs to be pre-lightened with bleach first to get to a certain level of shade, especially blonde which sometimes needs more than 1, 2 or 3 sessions to get to their hair goal. Now my Caucasian girls are showing me, and wanting, the color they seen on my Asian clients!"
For this transformation, Ly knew she needed multiple sessions. "My guest and I had a plan to get her blonde. We started in May and allowed 5 weeks between sessions, I got her a beautiful seamless blonde in August. At each session, I wanted to try different formulas and techniques to get her to her hair goal. The 4th session is when I stop pre-lightening her hair. I now have her come back every 6-8 weeks just for toning and to give her hair a break to stay healthy and soft."
Here Ly shares the HOW TO for this several session and beautiful transformation:
SESSION ONE: Pre-lighten the hair using traditional foil placement with Wella Blondor bleach+ 40vol+ Olaplex. Process for 45 mins (no heat). Rinse. Apply ISO Illuminate 5A5N+6vol. Process for 20 minutes and rinse. Apply step 2 Olaplex and process at the sink for 15 minutes. Rinse. Shampoo, condition, blow dry, style.
SESSION TWO (5 weeks later): Pre-lighten the hair using traditional foil placement with Wella Blondor bleach+ 40vol+ Olaplex. Process for 45 minutes (no heat), rinse. Apply ISO I color 7AA+zero lift for base. Apply Kenra 7SM + 10vol in foils the front of the hair and sides. For the ends apply ISO IColor 9SA+zero lift. Process for 20 minutes and then rinse. Apply Olaplex step 2 and process for 15 minutes. Shampoo and condition.
SESSION THREE (5 weeks later): Pre-lighten with Wella Blondor bleach +30 volume developer+Olaplex using balayage technique. Process for 1 hour at room temperature. Rinse. Apply ISO I color 7AA+ zero lift at the base. and ISO Illuminate 9SA+6vol to the rest of the hair. Process for 20 minutes, rinse and apply Olaplex step 2. Process at sink and then shampoo and condition the hair.
SESSION FOUR (5 weeks later): Pre-lighten using traditional foil placement with Matrix Light Master +30vol+ Olaplex. (Roots were grown out for 10 weeks). Process for 40 minutes. Rinse. Apply ISO I Color 8AA+blue intensifier+ violet intensifier + zero lift. Process for 1 hour and then rinse. "Her color will look very dark with grey and silver tones at the sink." Apply Olaplex step 2. Process for 15 minutes and then rinse. Shampoo, condition and dry.

MODERN SALON sat down with Samuels to discuss the book, beauty education, mentorship and the habits that help beauty professionals thrive.

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