
Rodrick Samuels on The Silent Work, Modern Beauty Education and Why Empathy Wins
MODERN SALON sat down with Samuels to discuss the book, beauty education, mentorship and the habits that help beauty professionals thrive.
James Dearmiju, @dearmiju. located at Salon Republic in West Hollywood, CA., created this lovely silver lilac finish that caught our eye on instagram. "Aline first came to me 4 months ago with dark brown hair," he says. "She ...

James Dearmiju, @dearmiju. located at Salon Republic in West Hollywood, CA., created this lovely silver lilac finish that caught our eye on instagram. "Aline first came to me 4 months ago with dark brown hair," he says. "She wanted light blonde hair and we were able to lift her using Goldwell Silk lift 10 volume on scalp and 30 volume mids and ends." Now Aline comes in monthly for her bleach retouch. "Sometimes she gets bored of her hair and wants something different that will fade out without staining her blonde."
For this visit, Silver Lilac was the answer. Here Dearmiju, who shares it's important to use a scale to measure, offers the HOW TO:
FORMULAS:
-Lightener formula: 100 grams of Goldwell Silklift Strong + 76 grams of 20 volume + 56 grams of 30 volume + 8 grams Olaplex
-Root formula: 40 grams Fanola Color 7.11 + 3 grams Fanola Blue Corrector + 2 grams Violet Corrector + 90 grams Fanola 10 Volume
-Mids and ends formula: 120 grams Fanola Silver Toner + 3 grams Fanola Blue Corrector + 3 grams Fanola Violet Corrector + 252 grams of Fanola 10 Volume
Step 1: Apply Bleach formula onto newgrowth (Level 2).
Step 2: Cross check and add end papers to seperate every few subsections to avoid overlap (bleach can swell or run into the mids when processing longer than manufacturers' instructions).
Step 3: Cover with plastic for natural heat and to prevent product from drying out. Process for 60 minutes or until pale yellow (Level 9+).
Step 4: Rinse out with cool water and towel dry. Have client seated and apply detangler on the ends and brush out.
Step 5: Apply Root color on scalp. Process for 3-10 minutes or until the color changes to a muted blue violet. Rinse and towel dry.
Step 6: Apply mids and ends color and allow to process for 5-15 minutes or until hair shows Silver Lilac hues. Watch the color. Timing varies depending on porosity. Rinse and towel dry.
Step 7: Use Olaplex step 2 for at least 10 minutes.
Step 8: Lightly wash with a violet shampoo. Finish with a violet conditioner. Add styling and care products. Dry and style with a 1.5 inch curling iron.

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MODERN SALON sat down with Samuels to discuss the book, beauty education, mentorship and the habits that help beauty professionals thrive.

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