
Rodrick Samuels on The Silent Work, Modern Beauty Education and Why Empathy Wins
MODERN SALON sat down with Samuels to discuss the book, beauty education, mentorship and the habits that help beauty professionals thrive.
Saretta Bowerman (@hairbysaretta), owner of Blue Water Salon in Naples, FL, says "Blondes have become my favorite thing and I’m currently obsessed with rooty cool shades. Each blonde has its own story, hair history, and specific ...

Saretta Bowerman (@hairbysaretta), owner of Blue Water Salon in Naples, FL, says "Blondes have become my favorite thing and I’m currently obsessed with rooty cool shades. Each blonde has its own story, hair history, and specific formulation and I enjoy the challenge everyone brings."
This first time client, who found Bowerman on Instagram, had existing lightened level 8 and 9 warm blonde hair from roots to ends with a few patchy dark spots in the back. "She requested that she have more depth at her base to match her natural color and more dimension throughout giving her a more rooty balayage effect with cooler platinum tones."
Here she shares the HOW TO for this challenge:
Prepare formulas:
Formula 1 (Base):Wella Illumina 60g 7/ and 15g 7/31 with 75g 10 vol
Formula 2 (Lightener): Wella Freelights and 30 vol (acts like a 20 vol)
Formula 3 (Glaze): Wella Koleston Perfect 20g 9/16, Wella Illumina 10g 10/69 and 5g 10/ with 70g Pastel Developer
STEP 1: Section hair in 4 quadrants, beginning in the back ("because she had more existing level 8 warm blonde in the back I wanted to lift.") Apply Formula 1 in a global application to the base.
STEP 2: Take ½ inch sections and blend Formula 1 about 2-3 inches out from the root with a very light feathery application. Balayage the lightener (Formula 2) from midsection to ends in the darker level 8 parts of her hair. Keep everything clean and separated with cotton and foil.
STEP 3: Process for 25 minutes. Rinse, shampoo, apply Wella Post Treatment for 5 minutes.
STEP 4: Glaze with Formula 3 for 10 minutes, rinse and condition.
STEP 5: Cut into an edgy a-line bob and style with 1.25" curling iron and Oribe Texturizing Spray.


MODERN SALON sat down with Samuels to discuss the book, beauty education, mentorship and the habits that help beauty professionals thrive.

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