Balayage highlights are great for just about everyone looking for dimension, a seamless melt, tasteful highlights, and an on-trend color design – an application that offers a truly modern ombre. 

Although many people refer to it as a style, balyage is not the result, but the technique. According to Dictonary.com:

“A technique for highlighting hair in which the dye is painted on in such a way as to create a graduated, natural-looking effect.” 

MODERN frequently reaches out to color and balayage expert, Eva Scrivo, who has mastered the technique and is one of the top balayage experts in the world. “I frequently hear that colorists cannot get sunny and bright highlights with balayage,” Scrivo says. “That is not true. If formulated and applied properly, as well as choosing the right product, anyone can get as much lift as desired.”

Here Scrivo shares the 5 reasons NOT to balayage:

1. COATED HAIR: “If the hair has any kind of coating, you may get spotty results,” Scrivo says. “Has it been henna-ed? Has your client had multiple demi’s or any heavily pigmented color that has built up or even banding from overlapping?” Scrivo suggests that foils may be necessary for this client. “You may need to use foils to break through the existing color.”

2. BRASSY HAIR: Hair that is perpetually brassy, no matter what you do, is another time you may want to use foils instead of balayage. “The foils will work as a pre-lightener and allow you to get lighter and brighter,” Scrivo says. “But keep in mind once lifted, return to balayage the next time you color the hair for perfect results.”

3. DEPTH AND DIMENSION: If your client does not want to see depth at the root, she is NOT a good candidate for balayage. “Balayage will leave a shadow root, as well as depth and dimension throughout the hair,” Scrivo adds. “Some clients do not want to see any of their natural or base color or are looking for a solid finish. Single process is best for them.”

4. TIME COMMITMENT: In a hurry? Balayage does take time. “If your client needs to get in and out, balayage is not for her. It is a technique that cannot be rushed. Don’t think you can use heat to speed it up, that may result in bleeding and spotting.”

5. LACK OF KNOWLEDGE: Scrivo says you must stay on top of your game. “Balayage is a technical craft,” Scrivo says. “It requires practice and understanding. If you’ve never taken a class to know the actual step by step for proper application and formulation, you may not be ready for some of the challenges that may come up.” 

Scrivo holds workshops at the Eva Scrivo Academy held in her Fifth Avenue, NYC salon, right in the heart of the Flat Iron district. Balayage is always part of the program. She also holds private immersion classes held once each month. For more information, go to www.EvaScrivo/Academy.com.