Makeover: How Jack Martin Helps Clients Stop Coloring Their Gray Hair

If you’ve been keeping up with MODERN SALON’s color content and formulas, Jack Martin should be a familiar name to you.

We’ve come to trust him as a resource for all-things gray: transformations, maintenance, before and afters, inspiration and more.

In a recent transformation Martin created, he shared that this client came to his space in Tustin, California, all the way from Texas (this guy is an expert!), with hair that had varying light and dark brassy colors. She was seeking gray/silver ash to blend and match her gray roots so she can stop coloring her hair every 3-4 weeks.

The total service was 10 hours, and it took place during one session.

Here’s how he did it:

Step 1: Martin says he began the long process by removing the artificial color using Malibu C CPR for 45 minutes, followed by Pravana Color Extractor for another 20 minutes.

Step 2: “Then I bleached the whole head beginning from where her gray roots started in foils using Oligo Pro Extra Blonde + 20-volume developer, mixed with Olaplex.” Leaving out her gray growth, he foiled her hair based on her gray pattern at the root and took very thin sections for faster, even lifting until he reached level 10 pale yellow blonde.

Step 3: Simultaneously, Martin took the isolated gray growth and colored it with Kenra Professional New Ash 5NUA mixed with 10-volume developer for about 30 minutes to create a salt and pepper look.

Step 4: Next, he rinsed the hair, pre-toned with Redken Shades EQ 1/2 oz 9b + 1/2 oz 9v mixed with 2oz Cristal clear and 3 oz of processing solution. Process for 20 minuets to cancel all the yellow from the hair, rinsed again.

Step 5: He dried the hair and applied Wella Blondor toner 1/2 pale silver + 1/2 pale platinum with 6-volume developer. Processed for 30 minutes, shampooed, conditioned, cut layered bob and styled with round brushes. 
Total service: 10 hours 

For more information on how Martin transforms his clients, plus his tips on maintaining the transformations, check out 10 Times Jack Martin Colorist Helped His Clients Go Gray.