Each time we pull up our Instagram feed and see a transformation that helps a client embrace her gray, if it has thousands of comments, reactions and likes, it's almost always from Jack Martin.
Martin, whose Instagram handle is @jackmartincolorist, commands a following of more than 100,000, is a colorist and salon owner based out of Tustin, California. One quick look at his body of work and it's clear that he's carved out an incredible spot for himself as the go-to guy for clients ready to embrace and blend their gray.
His captions always tell a story about his clients, their hair history, goals and, most importantly, the formula and process of how he achieves flawless blending to help his clients go gray gracefully.
Martin's clients drive for MILES to have his color work help them on their gray journey--and it's no surprise. His attention to detail and total customization create results with impact and major life change.
Some might be wondering--won't helping my clients embrace their natural hair color make me lose business? Not necessarily, says VP Creative of BabylissPRO Luis Alvarez, when we interviewed him about the topic last year.
"As a hairdresser, you need to help clients and their aesthetic identity—that’s what you do for a living,” Alvarez says. “If a client says, ‘I’m at this point in my life where I want to play off my gray,’ then it’s my job to help you do it in the best way possible."
Alvarez says extreme contrast can look aging, and recommends colorists look to "compress her tonal range" to create a soft effect.
“If she’s primarily white, lighten darker tones, pairing it with slightly gray next to middle gray or pair black with shades of dark charcoal and lighter gray—tone the whiteness to make it softer,” he says.
Martin's work has garnered so much attention in the gray world that he's also building a book of eager, non-gray clientele looking to embrace the icy, silver trend.
As for maintenance, that's the most important aspect in client satisfaction. If you transform her and she looks amazing, but goes home and doesn't have the same confidence, you haven't done the full 360 transformation.
To follow up on his successful Instagram makeovers, Martin did a post to showcase his favorite tips for long-lasting silver color:
FOR COLORISTS IN THE SALON:
1. Lift the hair to beyond yellow.
2. Pre-tone hair to cancel the yellow prior to applying the silver dye.
3. Apply silver dye on shampooed, dry hair for better deposit.
4. Add Olaplex to your silver dye, Olaplex helps to prevent fading.
5. Leave the color on the hair for at least 40 minutes covered with a head cap.
6. Shampoo hair lightly with cold water.
FOR CLIENTS AT HOME:
1. Don’t shampoo hair for 1 week after color service.
2. Don’t use thermal tools for 1 week after salon visit.
3. Shampoo with cold water once a week only, shampoo only roots.
4. Use dry shampoo to skip washing hair.
5. Mask hair once a week to moisturize and rebuild bleached hair.
6. Avoid using thermal tools but if you have to, set temperature to no more than 300F to 350F.
7. Use a heat protectant spray prior to heat styling
8. Use purple color deposit shampoo if you see any yellow tone in your hair, and use silver color deposit shampoo when you feel the silver starts fading.
9. Redo silver toning at the salon every 4 to 5 weeks.
10. Use Olaplex number 3 to rebuild hair.
Check out @jackmartincolorist's Instagram profile and give him a follow if you're ready for major inspiration. And... be prepared: the comments in his posts are clearly from eager and potential customers (from across the country AND globe!) ready to show their colorists these transformations as inspiration photos when they're ready for a change.
View this post on Instagram
This client came to me from over 75 miles far seeking gray silver color to blend and match her 100% gray roots so she can stop coloring her hair dark brown boxed color, total service was 9 hours, I started the long process by removing the artificial dye using @malibucpro CPR twice until I reached level 8 Cooper blonde, then I bleach the whole head starting from where the copper starts in foils using @oligopro extra blonde and 20 vol developer mixed with B3 leaving her gray roots out for about 3 hours by taking very thin sections for faster lightening process until I reached level 10 pale yellow blonde, rinsed hair, then pre toned with redken shade eq 1/2 9p + 1/2 9V for 20 minuets to cancel all the yellow from the hair, rinsed again, dried hair then applied Kenra silver metallic 10 SM with 6 vol and a dot of blue booster for 30 minuets, shampooed, conditioned, cut layers and styled round brushes.
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