
Rodrick Samuels on The Silent Work, Modern Beauty Education and Why Empathy Wins
MODERN SALON sat down with Samuels to discuss the book, beauty education, mentorship and the habits that help beauty professionals thrive.
Mary Ott (@maryhanna65), of Bethlehem, Pennsylvania loves to cut, carve and color manes daily. For Client Becky, Ott has had quite a journey: "She started with a virgin head of hair and down to her waist," says Ott. "On ...

Mary Ott (@maryhanna65), of Bethlehem, Pennsylvania loves to cut, carve and color manes daily. For Client Becky, Ott has had quite a journey:
"She started with a virgin head of hair and down to her waist," says Ott. "On her first session I chopped her hair to her collarbone and added some light hair painting, framing her face. I soon realized she was going to be one of my 'out of the box' clients. Next session we completely reshaped her mane into an asymmetrical jaw line cut (she has beautiful cheekbone & jawline structure). Soon after we got acquainted with the pink, red, and violet family. Next step, all over magenta berry."
Here she offers the step-by-step:
Formula A: 40 vol Wella Blondor , Moroccanoil additive
Formula B: 30 vol Wella Blondor, Moroccanoil additive
Formula C: Equal parts Pravana Vivid Magenta and Pravana Neon Pink
Formula D: Goldwell Colorance 6vv series
STEP 1: Apply formula A on roots, about 1 1/2 inches pulled out. Fine sections. Wrap with plastic, no heat. Process for 15 minutes.
STEP 2: Apply formula B on midshaft s and bayalage some pieces throughout the ends. Wrap with plastic wrap, no heat. Process for 10 minutes. (Tip: "Make sure your consistency of lightner is thick enough so it can absorb and not dry out to quickly.")
STEP 3: Lift all but ends to a 9/10 yellow. Rinse, shampoo, and condition, all with cool water. Towel dry, 80%.
STEP 4: Apply formula C roots to ends. 15 minutes. Rinse, towel dry lightly.
STEP 5: Apply Formula D roots to ends for seven minutes for a glossy vibrant finish. Tip: "Moroccanoil is a wonderful additive to any Lightner for extra nourishment and added nourishment.")
Notes on cut from Mary Ott:
"Her haircut was mainly done with my razor and shears. I wanted to keep the edges clean and blunt. I razored within the top section and occipital area. Creating movement, without taking to much off. Hand dry, and flat ironed the front piece and used a little AG high & dry matte volume finish spray."

First session, big cut.



MODERN SALON sat down with Samuels to discuss the book, beauty education, mentorship and the habits that help beauty professionals thrive.

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