Retro Glamour by Patrick McIvor

Patrick McIvor, colorist, owner of Patrick McIvor Color Studio and Matrix Artistic Color Director is tapping into the texture craze in a diff erent way—with color.

“When you bring out the texture with color, you don’t change the shape or volume, but all of a sudden the hair is soft er and you can see all the dimension and movement,” he says. He cautions colorists to hold back a bit though. “You must stay less than 50 percent of highlights. A base color is the color, the highlight is texturizing. One is creating the overall tone, the other the highlight. We are not using highlights to create color.” Blush Cashmere knit jacket and satin body suit by Dolce and Gabbana. Beige wool pannier belt by Marni Gloves by Louis Vitton.

“Is the formula going to work for your client? I want her to come back when she WANTS to, not when she HAS to.” —Patrick McIvor

PRODUCTS Lightener: V-Light De-Dusted Lightener by Matrix Glaze: Color Sync Demipermanent color Accessories: Product Club foils, jawclips and gloves Shampoo and conditioner: Matrix Hydrate Hydratherapie and Ultra Hydrating Balm Stylers: All by Matrix: Vavoom Gold Heat Iron In Control, Amplify Full Body Texturizer, sleek.look sealing serum, sleek.look blow-down, Vavoom Shape Maker Extra Hold Blower: Centrix Q Zone Brushes: Marilyn, Patrick McIvor round brush and Kremes styling brush Iron: Hot Tools curling iron

Before.

Take imprecise sections, anywhere between 1/2- and 1-inch. Backcomb from mid to base (about three times), compacting at the scalp.

Remove a selected strand and pull out from the section. Place the selected strands on foil and apply color (V-Light De-Dusted Lightener with 10-volume SoLite Cream Developer) from the edge of the backcombing to ends.

Once over the rounds of the head, switch to weaves. Hold out a 1-inch horizontal section and take a traditional weave. Apply the same formula from backcombing to ends.

Highlights are placed as shown from the crown to the sides. No highlights are placed below the occipital. Process to gold, then shampoo and condition.

While wet, apply the first glaze to the root: Color Sync 10MM and 10M equal parts with Color Sync activator.

Return and draw through to the lengths.

While processing, immediately apply a second color glaze that closely matches the client’s natural level. Using a brush and bowl, begin application in the crown. Push the color with the brush through the fi rst glaze and draw through to the mids. Brush is lifted before reaching middle of section. Continue throughout the hair. Process according to manufacturer’s instructors, shampoo and condition.

Before styling, heat the thermal round brush.

Blow dry hair over the heated round brush.

Once smoothed, pull out 1-inch sections and spray thermal protector on the section.

Sections are wrapped horizontally along the top and back, and vertically along the sides. After they cool, unwrap and style as desired.

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