Andrew Carruthers cuts the perfect face frame
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Andrew Carruthers cuts the perfect face frame


Regardless of hair texture, length or style, most outstanding haircuts beautifully frame the face. Andrew Carruthers, education director for Sam Villa, says that using photos during the consultation will help to manage expectations and that consultation is key for any change.

“Long layers can change dramatically with simple changes of elevation," Carruthers says. "When guests ask for change, it doesn't always mean removing a lot of length.”

In addition, Carruthers emphasizes that simple patterns - with great detailing - create structured shapes that last a very long time.

Here Carruthers shares his 10 musts on creating the perfect face frame:

1. Section the hair where you want the face frame to end so that it doesn't sneak too far back into the perimeter.

2. Use elevation to adjust density based on the texture of hair. 

3. Create a visual guide points to insure you cut the perfect lengths. 

4. Sectioning should be based on natural head shape and the major transitions in the hair cut to upgrade the standard "4 quadrants".

5. Don't blunt cut when you want a textured finish. It's more efficient to build texture through point cutting, slicing, or razor work as you create the shape.

6. Don't be afraid to detach (or disconnect) the layers from the perimeter, especially on fine hair. This allows the layers to go shorter without taking away density from the perimeter.

7. Be strategic with texturizing. Really examine where the weight or visual texture needs to be adjusted to balance with the rest of the shape.

8. Use the right tool for the right job. Having an assortment of shear lengths and designs upgrades your performance and shows your commitment as a craftsperson.

9. Understand the foundations of elevation, over-direction, and finger angle first! All the creative “stuff” comes easy with a great foundation.

10. The blow dry is just as important as the haircut itself. Your client will judge the quality of work on how she looks in the mirror, not on perfect layering.