In the pursuit of the perfect complexion, clients often approach salon professionals with the same common issues, such as breakouts and redness. Here skincare experts share tips on solving six common complexion concerns.
The Issue: Tired Texture
The Fix: "I always recommend a gentle wellness exfoliator once or twice weekly to promote a glowing complexion,” says Malibu C Wellness Expert and Educator Jamie Moore. “However it's important to recommend a wellness exfoliant such as Malibu C Exfoliant Facial Scrub, which gently, yet effectively sloughs off only the surface layer of the skin and promotes new cell turnover. Utilizing an exfoliant that is too harsh can actually have a negative effect as it can cause inflammation, more sebum production and micro-tears which may turn into fine lines and wrinkles.
I always recommend my clients follow this with Malibu C Original or Zinc C Wellness Serum, which also aids in normalizing the skin and helps defend against oxidative aggressors that cause free radical damage which leads to premature signs of aging. These Wellness Serums can also be used around the eyes, neck and décolleté for toning and firming. As an esthetician, my clients never leave a facial without their Vitamin C.
To keep this healthy, dewy skin, I recommend my clients always follow with a moisturizer, such as Malibu C Perfection-Crème for normal/dry skin or Malibu C Vital-Crème for sensitive/problematic skin. Moisturizers enhance the skins ability to maintain vital hydration and combat dryness. Malibu C B5 Moisture Mist is a quick fix favorite to hydrate the face and body throughout the day. It also restores moisture and calms irritated skin. Hydrating is a key factor to keeping your skin luminous and combating the tired, dull skin and the appearance of bags under the eyes."
The Issue: Breakouts
The Fix: “Acne is the most common of all skin disorders and is characterized by non-inflammatory lesions (whiteheads and blackheads) and inflammatory lesions (inflamed red lesions such as papules and pustules),” says Zaida Takeshita, Global Educator at Murad.
“Four major factors that can lead to acne are: 1) P. Acnes Bacteria (bacteria that feeds upon oil and dead skin cells that have become trapped in the pore); 2) Hormones (stress, puberty, menstruation and pregnancy); 3) Overactive Oil Glands; and 4) Clogged Pores (a combination of oil and dead skin cells that have bunched together and can develop into a blackhead or whitehead).
The best defense against congested pores (non-inflammatory lesions) is to cleanse the skin daily. It is especially important to always remove makeup and cleanse skin before going to bed. In addition, a daily regimen consisting of Retinyl Palmitate/Retinol helps refine skin texture, AHAs/BHAs to gently exfoliate, natural clays to help draw out impurities, and specific antioxidants to target sebum oxidation and tighten appearance of pores.
When congested pores become irritated, they can develop into papules and pustules (inflammatory lesions). The ingredients mentioned can also be used but you should also use products with over the counter active ingredients that are proven to help heal and reduce breakouts such as Salicylic Acid, Sulfur and Micronized Benzoyl Peroxide.”
The Issue: Lines and wrinkles
The Fix: “It is never too early to start preventative care,” says Lydia Sarfati, Repêchage CEO and Founder. “To do so, proper ‘nutrition’ is key. Without an adequate supply of vitamins, minerals, amino acids, and anti-oxidants, you will notice negative changes sooner. Dehydration on the surface of the skin also plays a role in premature aging as it often results in a lackluster skin tone and fine lines. To combat both, use a power-packed serum such as Repêchage C-Serum Seaweed Filtrate, loaded with 18 amino acids, 12 vitamins, and 42 trace elements and minerals. This serum penetrates into the skin cells by binding moisture to the skin, thus preventing dehydration, giving the skin a plump, fresh, and youthful appearance.
For those who already see the signs of aging, hope is not lost. Look for products and ingredients which contain peptide combinations that stimulate collagen production and prevent the breakdown of elastin, such as Repêchage Vita Cura Triple Firming Cream. Studies show that the pentapeptides act faster than and without the unattractive side effects associated with retinoic acid making them the ingredient of choice for aging skin.”
The Issue: Redness
The Fix: “A sensitive skin type is a genetic trait while a sensitized skin condition can happen to any skin type and is caused by exposure to pollution, stress, and chemicals,” says Beth Bialko, Global Education Developer for Dermalogica and The International Dermal Institute (IDI). “There are three main contributors to sensitive/sensitized skin: 1) Immunogenic inflammation - when the body is injured/irritated by trauma or pollen or artificial fragrances, it triggers an inflammatory response involving the immune system causing redness, swelling and inflammation. 2) Neurogenic inflammation - irritating chemicals can activate the nerve sensors, which release certain substances within the body that trigger inflammation and hyper-sensitivity. Stress can induce a neurogenic response resulting in itchiness, discomfort and blotchiness on the skin. 3) Barrier Breakdown - the protective lipid barrier can be compromised from over-exfoliation or from using soap or products with alcohol. Travel, stress and low humidity also contribute. The skin dehydrates and microscopic cracks appear allowing bacteria or chemicals to enter the skin, causing sensitivity, dehydration and stinging sensations.
Combat sensitive/sensitized skin by controlling inflammation with an anti-inflammatory and soothing botanical complex, like a serum with Avena Sativa (Oat), Bisabolol (Chamomile), Ginger, Red Hogweed. Reinforce the barrier with silicone moisturizers that soothe and protect with Borage Seed Oil and fortify the skin with essential fatty acids and ceramides such as Sunflower Seed extract and Evening Primrose Oil. Shield from harmful UV rays and heat with a physical sunscreen and opt for a primer that has a sheer green tint to further cancel out redness. Avoid triggers like harsh chemicals, pollution, UV, extreme temperatures, over-exfoliation, diet, alcohol, smoking and stress.”
The Issue: Dry Skin
The Fix: “To fight dry skin, drink a lot of water- at all times, but especially if you live in a hot and or dry climate,” says Bodyography Professional Cosmetics Creative Director and Makeup Artist Lori Leib. “If you are not ‘in to’ skincare, the one product you need in your arsenal is a nice, rich moisturizer. Even people with oily skin need to moisturize their skin - this will prevent dryness, dehydration, and wrinkles!
To prevent dryness I recommend applying your products in the following order: wet products first (cleanser, toner, masks), intensive serums second and moisturizer last - so that it locks in all the treatments and moisture, leaving your skin looking and feeling glowing and hydrated. Taking shorter and cooler showers will help prevent your skin from drying out, the warm water removes all the natural oils and moisture from your skin. Once you get out of the bath or shower immediately follow with moisturizer on you face and body while still partially wet, this will lock in all the moisture.
Make sure when cleansing the skin to use a detergent and sulphate free cleanser, this will make sure that your skin is not stripped of natural hydrating oils. If you are experiencing dry patchy skin don’t exfoliate with a granular exfoliant, instead lightly massage the skin with a damp warm washcloth or use a super hydrating mask.
SPF is extremely important to prevent dry and aging skin, make sure to wear an SPF moisturizer at all times throughout the year. During the harsh winter months it is important to exfoliate dry dead skin and moisturize the new fresh skin underneath. This is achieved by incorporating rich hydrating products that will give you that natural glow we all lack during the winter months.”
The Issue: Oily Skin
The Fix: “There are many culprits that cause oily skin including genetics, incorrect usage of skincare products, hormones and even certain foods,” says Dr. Gary Goldfaden, founder of Goldfaden MD. “The degree of oiliness is controlled by sebum which is produced in our bodies by the sebaceous glands. The production of too much sebum causes acne, while not enough leaves skin dry and cracked.
If you are genetically predisposed to having oily skin, you have one of your parents to thank. A gentle cleanser would be the best product to try and control the excess oil. If excessive oil cannot be controlled with a gentle detoxifying cleanser, try a stronger cleanser that contains either salicylic acid or glycolic acid (both will dry up the sebum production).
Oily skin can also be triggered by using skin care products incorrectly and too aggressively. Over exfoliation or scrubbing can cause skin to actually think it is dry and therefore produce more oil. The sebaceous glands go into overdrive and produce more oil to moisturizer the skin, which can cause breakouts. Hormones also play a huge part in sebum production. This is why it is very common for females to have breakouts around the time of their period.
The best ways to handle oily skin and have a clear complexion are to use skin care products that cleanse the skin without stripping it, eating healthy food, exercise and not picking. Always wash your face and take off makeup before going to bed. The good news if you have oily skin is that as you age you will wrinkle less than dry skin types!”
Dr. Marina Peredo, New York City dermatologist and Associate Clinical Professor at Mt. Sinai Hospital further addresses treatments for oily skin, saying, “the best place to start is the cleansing process. Cleansing twice daily with an AHA based cleanser helps remove surface impurities and excess oil. If your face feels one size too small after cleansing, you are using the wrong cleanser! Incorporating Clarisonic Brush in the evenings gives skin a thorough purification.
The use of non-comedogenic products, including a moisturizer with sunscreen is very important. Just because skin is oily doesn’t mean it has optimal hydration. Look for ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, which adds skin-plumping hydration without the oil. Avoid ingredients such as petrolatum, which is too rich for oily-prone skin. A good combination is Hyalis Hydrating Serum by Neocutis with Colorscience’s Sunforgettable powder sunscreen. The Sunforgettable not only provides SPF but can be reapplied throughout the day to tame oil breakthrough.
Mattifying lotions or oil controlling primers are also a good way to balance skin. Dickinson Witch Hazel Towelettes or Smashbox Oil Free Pore Minimizing Primer are good choices. Blotting papers can remove any breakthrough shine during the day.
Light chemical peels performed by a physician or licensed aesthetician on a regular basis will help balance skin. Ingredients like glycolic acid, salicylic acid or mandelic are all good choices for oily-prone skin. Regular peels can help minimize the acne breakouts associated with oily skin as well as minimize pore size and create a more even skin texture. If you can’t afford a series of in-office peels, there are home peel kits that can help, however, the results will not be the same.”
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