You’ve got questions, Beth has answers! In this ongoing series in MODERN SALON, Facebook fans share their color conundrums with Beth Minardi, award-winning colorist, NYC salon owner and spokesperson for Joico Vero K-Pak color. When you spot the Color Social post on MODERN’s Facebook page (facebook.com/modernsalon), share your color challenges!
Q: How do you take a platinum blonde to a darker blonde without the hair turning gray, slate or steel-colored?
A: “Never apply an ‘allover’ toner,” says Minardi. “Instead lowlight with a conditioning, non-ammonia demipermanent shade. Omit some of the ends of the hair lengths as you paint. Mix a light, golden-blonde shade with a lightest neutral blonde in equal proportions. I paint a pre-wash creme treatment onto the hair between foils to protect and to prevent porous hair lengths from ‘grabbing’ toner.”
Q: What is your favorite lowlight formula for light gray blending?
A: “Demipermanent acid formulas should be the colorist’s best friend,” says Minardi. “They’re the best, lowimpact choice for lowlighting, refreshing midlengths and ends, and light gray blending. I believe you should only lowlight with demipermanent acidic formulas because lowlighting with permanent color will cause the ends to look muddy. And correctly done, demis can last longer than permanent color. Remember, when your blonde client tells you she wants to be brunette, don’t do it. Lowlight her instead, because even though she doesn’t know it yet, every blonde strand you leave on her head will be her friend.”
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