Tracy Vasquez of Scotch Bonnet Hair Studio, West Palm Beach, Florida, specializes in precision razor cutting, curly hair and creative hair color.
Model Sherri came looking for something fun and a bit more edgy. Vasquez transitioned Sherri from her usual base and highlights into a bolder and brighter double process blonde. She then went a step farther and created a more whimsical effect by creating a dimensional, pinkish-purple pastel hue. For the cut Vasquez took her into a short textured bob w/ a fringe.
Here is the color HOW TO:
Step 1: First double process the hair using BES non-ammonia bleaching cream on the regrowth starting w/ 20 volume increasing to 25 volume half way through application. (Using a small 1" brush carefully lightening the existing 9 level between highlights.)
Step 2: Process with a loose cap - w/ elastic cut on either side- placed gently over hair. Lift to a palest white/yellow. Apply Emulsion D (product w/ 2.5 ph) to stop action of lightener. shampoo as usual. ("The lightest hair becomes the boss at this point ...meaning it may not ALL process completely at the same...so don't keep waiting for the darkest hair to lift or the lighter hair will be compromised. So at times I will rinse, apply emulsion D and reapply lightener again to damp hair only where needed if it is still too yellow.")
Step 3: Now blend the toner. For the pastel purple toner use Goldwell Elumen about 40g clear with 1 drop of VV@all 1g. ("Start with one drop and work up to desired shade, testing on the porous side of a white paper plate to give an idea of the result. For tones such as this you could use merely 1-5g of VV@all w/ a drop of Pk@all to 40-50g of CLEAR! I say 'about' because I start w/ minimal pigment and add 1drop at a time until the desired tone is reached."
Step 4: Apply toner as you would a touch up but starting in the crown first for the strongest point of intensity. Gently feather out to create softness and to melt seamlessly into the paler ends, using a smaller 1" brush to avoid creating a harsh line.
Step 5: Process the regrowth area for 15-20 minutes.
Step 6: Pull through to ends for the last minute to leave an even softer hue of the tone closer to the scalp. This also creates the dimension.