Cyrell Cook  (@hair_by_love) of Mane Trendz Salon, Austin, TX,  shares that "This client had a terrible last experience at the salon leaving her with a sensitive scalp and a 3-4 inch level 7-8 yellow band that was extremely resistant. When she was referred by a friend she had about an inch an a half of new growth which was a level 6-7, and level 10 warm blonde ends."

Cook needed multiple sessions for the transformation. "For her first session I took a route that would not use lightener because of her last situation and sensitivity of her scalp." To the roots the colorist applied Pravana 7A (1 oz.) + 20 vol. (1.5 oz) and used Joico Vero K Pak, High Lift Ash (1/2 oz.) + High Lift Beige (1/2 oz.) with 30 vol. developer (2 oz.)  for a total of 55 minutes.  "The band lifted some but remained resistant to the High Lift."  

For the second session he chose to use L'Oreal Professionnel Blonde Studio lightener 1:1 with 20 vol. developer + 1/8 oz. of Olaplex for a total of 50 minutes to softly break through that yellow barrier.  To create a deeper root Cook applied Pravana Chomosilk (mixing ratio 1:1.5)  6A (1/2 oz.) + 7A (1/2 oz.) with 10 vol. developer ( 1.5 oz) for 35 minutes. The hair was toned at the bowl with Pravana Express Tones, ash (.07 oz.) + violet (.03 oz.) with 1.5 oz. of Zero-lift developer for 10 minutes. The hair was finished with Olaplex #2 for 15 minutes.

Here Cook shares details for the technique and application in her own words:

"After sectioning the hair into four sections I started to apply the lightener in 1/2" sections, starting at the nape, to the yellow band leaving out her already very blonde ends.  I checked the banded area often while she processed, and pulled the lightener down to the ends for the last 5 minutes, and rinsed at 50 minutes.  From here we took her back to the chair and applied the darker root color starting at the nape taking 1/2" sections. I applied a reverse W balayage 1-2 inches down from the scalp and then using my fingers to blend the root color to the blonde slid my fingers down the section.  I normally take about 3 inch horizontal sections at a time and use a brick lay pattern applying the root color farther down on the two outside sections and then doing the opposite in the next session to create deeper dimension.  Last we toned at the bowl for 10 minutes and used Olaplex #2 for 15 minutes, then finished with a light trim and style"

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