"Pastel colors are amazing, the trouble is they are often more high maintenance than fashion colors," says Heggy Gonzalez (@heggyhair) of the Aveda Institute, Provo (Utah). "They tend to fade a lot faster, not just because they are lighter. It is mainly due to the fact that you have to lighten the hair to at least a level 10. Once hair is porous it does not always have the integrity to hold that color, unless you are working with direct dyes which don't tend to fade as fast. The downside of direct dyes is that they tend to not come out as easily."
Here, Gonzalez shares some tips for getting pastel colors to last longer which she adds "is truly all in the prep of the hair!! Plus, you really have to do all of them, if you rush or skip the process you may still get great results they just won't last as long."
- If you are pre-lightening the hair you must make sure that you do conditioning treatments prior to and after pre-lightening.
- Pre-Tone - I always pre-tone the hair prior to any fashion color. This does two things A-it evens out the tone/level and give you an even canvas to apply the final color. B-It helps to balance out the porosity, pH and further condition the hair.
- Equalize the porosity of the hair. Many companies have porosity equalizers that you have apply prior to coloring the hair. I use Aveda Damage Remedy Equalizing Solution (I will often do this prior to the pre-tone as well)
"I know that all these steps do add to the time of the service, however the added time will give you better results."
HOW-TO:
Client was a starting level 4 with previously colored hair. All products are by Aveda.
Step 1: Color cleanse (40g Enlightener + 40g 20v Color Catalyst + 40g Shampure shampoo)
a: Cleanse hair to a level 9-10.
b: Shampoo hair 3 times to ensure thorough removal of Enlightener.
c: Apply Damage Remedy Penetrating Protein Treatment at shampoo bowl. Cover with a hot towel and let it set for 5 minutes and rinse from hair.
d: Apply Damage Remedy Equalizing Solution and dry hair.
Step 2: Pretone using 30g 0N + 10g 10N + 40g CTA *You can add tone to the pre-tone if the you still have some yellow after pre-lightening the hair.
Step 3: Final Color
a: Apply Damage Remedy Equalizing Solution and dry hair.
b: New-growth (40g 0N + 3g Violet Pure Pigment +1g Pastel Blue Pure Tone + 40g Color Catalyst) *apply newgrowth color amd vary the amount I went down the hair shaft. *used a wide tooth comb and feather the new growth color down the hair shaft.
c: Mid-lengths/Ends (40g 0N + 3g Red Pure Pigment + 40g 10v Color Catalyst) *apply color to mid lengths and ends slightly overlapping at newgrowth. Process for 20 minutes.
d: Shampoo the condition the hair (I use Color Conserve Phinish which takes the hair back to it's natural pH).
Tips:
-If you are going to use complementary colors when doing a melt, you need to make sure that you will not get a "muddy" color at the melt line. I recommend a test strand.
-You may need to adjust the amount of Pure Tone that you use in the final formulas based on porosity of hair and if there is any yellow left after you pre-lighten the hair.
Haircolor: Heggy Gonzalez (@Heggyhair) Creative Director / Aveda Hair Color Purefessional / Color Coach
Haircut: Rachel Carter (@rach-carter)
Makeup Artist/Photographer: Siri Rawle (@sirielaineartistry)
Model: Char Daley (@chardaley)
For reprint and licensing requests for this article, Click here.
media brand