“My guest was unsure what she wanted," say Dominique DeFrancesco (@colorbydd), a color specialist at De La Mer Salon in Bellmore, New York. The Goldwell educator who specializes in balayage and natural, lived-in finishes adds, "She was looking to go darker based on a photo she found on my Instagram page. Since she had lighter hair color for so long, we decided to take her darker in baby steps."

DeFrancesco chose to lowlight the client's hair, and add brightness with babylights "so that she was not in complete shock."

Here, DeFrancesco shares the how-to, using all Goldwell color: 


Detail A: Face Frame Goldwell Oxycur Ultra 1scoop to 35ml Goldwell Topchic developer 10volume

Detail B: Goldwell CoverPlus  7-8 warm 15ml 5ml 7-8 neutral 5 ml 6-7 warm to cover plus developer 50ml

Detail C: Goldwell Colorance  10ml 7g 15ml8gb to Colorance lotion 50ml 

Detail D: Goldwell  Colorance  10ml 6sb 10ml 8sb to Colorance lotion 40ml


Step 1: Section the hair into 3 quadrants working from the back  take sections working bottom to top.

Step 2: Brick lay sections. Take ribbon weave of Detail B to delete existing highlights, leaving out the existing highlights in between to allow natural dimension.  

Step 3: Work around to the front quadrants using Detail A place in babylights around the face frame from center parting.  

Step 4: Set in brick lay sections through the sides using Detail B to create natural dimension by feathering in lowlights mid to ends.

Step 5: Apply Detail C in all non-isolated sections.

Step 6: Process all together for 30 minutes. Shampoo using Goldwell Kerasilk Reconstruct Shampoo. Towel dry.

Step 7: Section hair into four quadrants. Apply root shadow starting in the back working around to the front creating a teardrop application. Process for 10 minutes. Rinse and condition.

For reprint and licensing requests for this article, Click here.