Gerilyn Ghaisarzadeh (@GerilynGhaisarzadehphd), co-owner of Capricci Ricci Salon, Winter Park, Florida, says, "My client who has naturally curly hair had been coloring her hair with Aveda level 6 red - at least 3 times -from root to end. The last time she had highlights was in March 2014 so I knew she had bleach underneath all that red. Since her hair tends to be frizzy, and she had lightener underneath, I knew I needed to be careful."
Ghaisarzadehph said maintaining the integrity of the hair was at the top of the list when deciding what to use for this makeover.
"To start the process I analyzed what type of lightning she would need. Since the red was overlapped several times I knew I needed something a little stronger for the root through the mid shaft."
Here she shares the details for this makeover:
Step 1: From roots through mids apply Wella Blondor and 20 volume. In the same foil apply Wella Blondor and 10 volume with Olaplex (extra wet) on ends. Apply a full head of highlights in this manner.
Step 2: Babylight in between each foil using Wella's Blondor and 10 (with Olaplex) to lift a little more red while maintaining integrity. NOTE: "I realize Olaplex directions call for bumping the developer up 10 volume for desired level of left. I have found that when I use Olaplex and 10 volume on delicate hair or hair that has been previously lightened underneath, I get lift and strength."
Step 3: Process under a heated dryer for 25 minutes. ("I was pleased with how the foils all lifted evenly. I wasn't sure of the outcome because red is usually hard to lift especially since it was overlapped numerous times.")
Step 4: Tone to blend the remaining red with the blonde. First isolate the face frame. To the rest of the hair, at root, apply Wella's Illumina .25oz of 6/16 .25oz. of 6/76 and .50 oz. of 5/35 with 1 part Wella's Post Color and 1 part Wella's Color Touch developer. Process for 10 minutes. Do not rinse.
Step 5: Melt Wella's Illumina 9/60 through to the ends. At the face frame apply 9/60 root to end around the face for a brighter blonde. Process for an additional 5 minutes. Rinse.
Step 6: Go in and add 5/02 to the root area for additional shadow. Process for 5 minutes and rinse. Follow with an Olaplex treatment and finish with S Factor Smoothing Lusterizer.
"I was so pleased with the way her hair felt and looked. As always a big thank you to my assistant Brittany Rodriguez for helping me through this process."
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