Surfside Blonde: Beachy Blonde Formula from Joico

These glowing Joico highlights were inspired by summers spent in Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

Formula & Application:
Natural level-7 medium blonde

Formula 1: Blonde Life Lightening Powder with 10-volume developer
Formula 2: LumiShine Permanent Cream Hi-Lift Color in XLN with 30-volume developer
Formula 3: Free Play Clay Lightener with 40-volume developer
Formula 4: LumiShine Permanent Crème Color 9N with 5-volume developer (1:1)
Formula 5: LumiShine Demi Liquid ¾ oz Clear + ¼ oz 9NV with 5-volume developer (1:1)

1. Create a horseshoe shape at the top of the head that moves from top of one brow to top of the other brow and back to the crown. Then section each side from the horseshoe vertically, just behind the ear. Start your application in the nape. Take a horizontal subsection, then take a triangular section from just behind the ear, gently backcomb it at the base area, and apply Formula 1 just below where the hair is teased. Feather on the formula from the base, working in a V-shape from midlengths to ends.
2. Repeat on opposite side by taking a 1-inch horizontal section in the center that is about 3 inches wide. Backcomb and repeat the V-shape application.
3. Continue with two more horizontal sections. Work in a bricklay pattern, moving up the head to just below the top horseshoe.
4. Move to the side sections. Take a diagonal slice along the hairline and apply Formula 2 from base to ends. Then move up, take a section above the previous one and repeat a few more times.
5. Take a horizontal slice from the top of the remaining hair on the side section, gently backcomb and apply Formula 1 using the feathering technique.
6. Take the hair that was left out of the foils, gently backcomb, and apply Formula 1 from the midlengths to the ends. This will add extra brightness around the face. Then repeat on the opposite side.
7. Move to the top section. Divide the hair down the center, then take a 2-inch section from the back of the crown. Take a 1/4-inch woven section from the base of this back section and apply Formula 2.
8. Repeat this procedure until you reach the top of the section. Fully saturate the midlengths and ends, feather the formula up the scalp.
9. Rake the hair that’s left out of the foils, gently backcomb and apply Formula 1 from the midlengths to ends.
10. Next, isolate the fringe. Take a diagonal, woven section along the hairline and apply Formula 2. Feather the formula toward the scalp.
11. Take the hair left out of the foil closest to the hairline, gently backcomb, and feather Formula 1 from midlengths to ends, working toward the scalp. Repeat on the opposite side.
12. At the fringe part it down the middle. Working on one side, feather on Formula 3, using the same application procedure. Repeat on the opposite side of the fringe. Process 30-40 minutes. Shampoo and dry.
13. Use Formula 4 to create a 3-inch shadow root. Complete all the roots to soften the contrast.
14. Apply Formula 5 to the rest of the hair. Process 10-20 minutes; then shampoo and condition.

Color: Denis de Souza
Style: Paul Norton
Photographer: Hama Sanders
Makeup: Nikki La Rose.

For reprint and licensing requests for this article, Click here.