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THE JOURNEY: Blonding, One Session At A Time

Maggie Mulhern | June 18, 2017 | 6:07 AM
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Reanna Cochrane (@Reanna_SN), a Redken Certified Colorist based at Salon Nathaniel, Redken Elite, Summit Salon, Meriden, Connecticut, knew it would take multiple sessions to get her client to her desired goal. Here Cochrane shares the very detailed journey:

HAIR HISTORY: 2010-2016 (8 week standing appointments). Formula: Redken Shades EQ - global application- 03N + processing solution. Equal parts. Processed at room temp for 20 minutes. Shampoo- Redken color extend.  Redken chemistry system treatment- color extend shot. Condition- Redken color extend. Home haircare: Redken Color Extend Shampoo + conditioner. 

DECEMBER 2016- START OF BLONDE JOURNEY:

Formulas:

  1. Redken Flashlift + 30 volume pro-oxide + PH Bonder
  2. Redken Freehand Lightener + 30 volume pro-oxide + PH Bonder
  3. Redken Shades EQ Gloss 

       a. 06GN + processing solution

       b. 08N + 08V + processing solution 

       c. 09T + 08N + processing solution

       d. 09V + processing solution

Application and Technique:

Redken 5th Ave Balayage! 

  1. Comb hair into natural fall.
  2. Visualize and/or clip out upside down triangle shaped sections in fringe area. Client preferred part-line should divide your sections. Size of triangle sections determined by hair density. 
  3. Visualize and/or clip out upside down triangle shaped sections on top of head(crown area). Hair is still laying in natural fall. Consider cowlicks affecting the hairs movement. Don't fight it, work with it!
  4. With formula #1, in first face framing section, paint the surface of your triangle. Diagonal back hair painting for desired lightness around face. Hot tip: leave the underside (or bottom of triangle) untouched by lightener. This will create dimension and contrast. Consider this your built in low light! Time saver!
  5. Repeat on opposite side of fringe area.
  6. Repeat surface painting on your crown area triangle sections. 
  7. Moving down the head, visualize and/or clip out triangle sections in between previously painted sections in bricklayer style.
  8. Repeat step 4 on second tier of triangles.
  9. Create as many tiers necessary for desired look. For depth and dimension through the ends of the hair, avoid painting a bottom tier. For lightness and brightness throughout the ends, leave no triangles unpainted. (View application 1.)
  10. Process at room temp for up to 50 minutes.
  11. Rinse balayage thoroughly. Towel dry.
  12. Color glaze with formula #3a. Process at room temp for 20 minutes. 
  13. Rinse thoroughly. Apply Redken PH Bonder Step 2. Even saturation is important. Sit for 10 minutes. 
  14. Shampoo with Redken Extreme shampoo. Rinse. Apply Redken Chemistry System. 3 pumps of Redken Extreme shot phase. Sit 5 minutes. Apply 3.5 shot phix. Emulsify, rinse, and condition with Redken Extreme. 
  15. NOTE: Treatments are essential for balancing PH and replenishing proteins/moisture to ensure hair strength and color longevity. 

HOME HAIRCARE:

*Redken Extreme shampoo and conditioner

*Redken Extreme CAT treatment

*Redken PH Bonder step 3

*Redken One United 25 benefit leave in treatment spray. 

NOTES:

-Essential home regimen for effective and healthy hair lightening.

-Repeat steps 1 - 15 every 5 weeks.

-5 total sessions were necessary for full transformation.

-Step 4 formula changed to formula #2 for sessions 2-5.

-Step 12 formula was adjusted each session, achieving at least 1-2 levels of lift per session.

-This client did NOT sacrifice any length in her lightening journey. Her hair is just as healthy, strong, and shiny, as when we started!! 

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