Lighter and Brighter For The College Girl
Jason Sapp (@hairbyjasonsapp), a national color educator for John Paul Mitchell Systems, is based at 67 Styles, a Paul Mitchell Focus Salon in Statesboro, GA. This guest, a college student at Georgia Southern University, "wanted something lighter, brighter and very low maintenance on her naturally wavy hair. Tousled texture is perfect for an early morning school schedule!"
For this makeover, Sapp utilized a "Sketching" technique he learned at a color training called 'hueniversity' at Paul Mitchell the School Columbus, Ohio in May 2017. "Sketching is a hand painted technique where the artist uses medium to heavy saturation on the top surface of the section working towards the base. It creates a lived in all-over blonding effect. It is ideal for color corrections, big transformations, and modernized platinum retouches."
Here Sapp shares the details for this transformation using these formulas:
Formula 1: Paul Mitchell SKYlight Clay lightener 40 vol
Formula 2: Paul Mitchell SKYlight Clay lightener 20vol
Step 1: Divide the hair into a horse shoe section on top and clip away. Divide hair behind ears to separate the head front to back.
Step 2: Place color in criss crossing diagonal sections though the entire back to keep the blend soft. "On each section I changed the amount of saturation depending on the overall amount of lift I needed in that section. Also toward the base where the natural color was darkest, I used formula 1 with heavy saturation."
Step 3: As Sapp approached the mids and ends that had previous lightening, use formula 2 and a more medium saturation. Continue using this same sketching technique through the sides and the top making sure to remix for the front/top sections to keep the lightener fresh.
Step 4: Process up to 50 minutes or to desired level. (*helpful tip: break the shell of the clay lightener on the section to get a true idea of the lifted level. SKYlight uses rice flour and kaolin clay to form an outer shell that never fully drys out to flake. It eliminates the need for film, foils, mesh and wrap with zero transfer - definitely a favorite for a speedy hand painted application!)
Step 5: Shampoo with Paul Mitchell Platinum Blonde Shampoo and then rinse thoroughly. Towel blot excess water. Apply PM the demi equal parts 9PA, 9V equal parts mixed with Paul Mitchell Processing Solution. Process to desired tonality (within 20 mins).