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Hair Color Trends

COLOR CORRECTION: Rooted Cool-Toned Blonde Makeover

Maggie Mulhern | July 30, 2017 | 7:29 AM
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After
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Before
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Kaitlin Ward (@kwhair_), a colorist at Touch of Elegance by Elise in Ontario, Canada, has been a hairstylist for about 5 years specializing in blonde. She credits her expertise after pursuing advanced education, including recent classes with @catherinelovescolor and @lisalovesbalayage. "I am truly obsessed with education and color - and have been fortunate enough to get to work with some amazing clients." 

"The makeover that you're featuring was actually a model I chose to use - on my day off at 8 a.m. (haha) - to practice my babylights. After about 3.5 hours of work, I was almost regretting my choice, although now I can truly believe everything happens for a reason!"

BACKSTORY:
This client had about 4-5" of level 5 regrowth and had been previously getting traditional highlights throughout her hair leaving the mid-ends sitting at a warm level 8/9.

The goal was to achieve a "rooted" cool toned blonde.

FORMULAS:
Formula a) Oligopro cool toned lightener with 20vol+ ( 1:1)
Formula b ) Oligopro clay lightener 10vol  (1:1.5)
Formula c) Redken Shades EQ gloss 20g 7N +5g 7p
Formula d) Redken Shades EQ gloss 1/3 7p + 2/3 9p
Formula e) 1/2 9v + 1/2 000 clear Redken Shades EQ gloss

Section the hair into 4 quadrants.

1. Take thin sections starting in the back quadrants at the nape and weave each section, applying formula a feathering up to the root (increasing in strength as I moved around the head up to 40vol on my last section.)

2. Every 3rd foil use a diamond shaped pattern when applying lightener, leaving a little more root depth.
"There was around 180 foils on her head!!"

3. On all the leftover pieces apply formula b on the mid-ends. (I applied formula b to the back section before moving onto foiling the sides/top).

4. Once the back had been on for 50 minutes (reaching a pale level 9/10) rinse - waiting for the sides to reach the same level around 45 minutes) then rinse them as well. Shampoo with Davines Natural Tech nourishing shampoo, then Natural Tech hair building pak for 10 minutes. Rinse and towel dry, prepping for the color melt.

COLOR MELT:
1. Apply formula c to the roots about 1/2" combed down, and then apply formula d to the mid shaft and then formula e to the last 5" of the ends.

2. Comb everything together and process for 15 minutes.

3. Rinse and apply Davines Natural Tech vegetarian miracle conditioner for 5 minutes.

4. Round brush the hair dry - and style with  Bio Ionic 1.25" long barrel curling iron (seriously cannot go a day without it !)

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