Jaymz Marsters (@jaymz.marsters) from Norfolk, England, says "My client needed something fresh and a complete change was due. For several months she had been having blue/green tones throughout her hair. Removing these from the hair was going to be a challenge, especially after the build up of color, and matching her natural level 8 regrowth." Adds Marsters, "In my eyes nothing is too much of a challenge, from box black to platinum, if you have the time I'm willing to give it my best."

Marsters says that the hair styles and color designs he gives his clients reflect many of the things he enjoys. "One of my big influences is Japanese culture and fashion. Musicians like Kyary Pamyu Pamyu bring strange and eccentric fashion to the world so I like to help incorporate the same kinds of concepts into the styles I design...but with an every day wearable approach."

Here Marsters shares the HOW TO for this transformation that took 4 hours:

Products used (Igora and BlondMe by Schwarzkopf):
Igora Vario Blond lightener
Igora Pearlescence 9.5-89
Igora Pearlescence 9.5-29
Igora Royal 8-29
Igora Royal 9.5-22
BlondMe 7 volume developer
Affinage Cool Blonde shampoo
Affinage Moisture Boost shampoo & conditioner
BlondMe Strawberry Blonde

Step 1: Remove excess length to reduce product waste. Once removed, prep the hair with BlondMe Pre-Lift Kera Protector by soaking the hair then drying the product into the strands.

Step 2: Blend Igora Vario Blond powder lightener with equal parts warm water. Apply to the midlengths and ends. Process for 5 minutes. Using the same mixture apply to the root area for a for another 10 minutes (avoiding any fresh regrowth.)  Shampoo the hair with a clarifying shampoo then dry.

Step 3: Repeat step 2 until the old direct dye is removed.

Step 4: Due to the heavy green pigment in the previous color, this left the blonde with a lime green sheen. To remove this, mix BlondMe Tone in "Strawberry" with equal parts 7 volume developer. Apply to the green areas on towel dried hair. Keep a close eye on the hair. Rinse, condition and dry once the unwanted green tone has been cancelled out.

Step 5: Using Igora, mix formula 1: 15g 8-29 + 5g 6-89 + 20g 7 volume. Apply the mixture to the root area following a normal regrowth application. Use a towel to wipe your hands/comb/tint brush to avoid contaminating the ends between sections.

Step 6: Using Igora, mix formula 2: 15g 9.5-22 + 5g 9.5-89 + 30g 7 volume. Apply this mixture to the next 2 - 3 inches, overlapping into the previous step. Blend where the colors meet using your fingers to smudge.

Step 7: Using Igora, mix formula 3: 15g 9.5-22 + 5g 9.5-29 + 40g 7 volume. Apply to the remaining hair overlapping into step 6. Repeat the same technique to blend the two colors together. Allow to process for 15 minutes then reapply formula 3 from the ends up to where formula 1 finished. Remember to blend using your fingers (you can never blend enough!)  Develop for an additional 10 minutes.

Step 8: Once developed, lightly dampen the hair at the bowl and emulsify formula 1 into formula 2. Rinse immediately. Shampoo using Affinage Cool Blonde. Condition the hair. Finish the cut and then blowdry using BlondMe Cool Ice toning spray and Fudge Salt Spray. Style as desired and finish with Fudge Headshine.


For reprint and licensing requests for this article, Click here.