The ideal hairstyle for a special occasion has essential musts—in addition to it looking beautiful and pairing well with the fashion, it has to last throughout the entire event (no bride wants her waves to fall flat or her updo to slip). The most important fundamentals for a style to maintain its structure are preparation, internal pinning and surface polish, says Inoar brand ambassador based out of Brazil Bruno Lemes.
Prep begins with a vision customized to your client’s look, hair density, and style goals. Make her feel comfortable with photo references at your station. Then, it’s all about imagining the creation of the hairstyle and placement of the detailing by analyzing her hair.
“Visualize the strands you will use to highlight certain detailing,” Lemes says. If she wants a side chignon, imagine curling the hair and pulling it to a specific side of the head. Subdivide the hair and really look at what you’re working with before you get started.
“It is much better to think then act than to freestyle,” he says. “When you mentally divide and then separate you get deliberate execution.”
Lemes begins by shampooing his clients, but steering clear of conditioner.
“If the hair is chemically treated and requires some type of treatment, you can use conditioner or a mask, but only on the ends and make sure to rinse thoroughly,” he says. He uses a leave-in after shampooing for thermal protection, like Inoar Professional Argan Oil leave-in conditioner.
“I spray each and every strand,” Lemes says. After working with a curling iron, he sets the hair and allows it to cool for at least 30 minutes. “This is critical to the implementation of the next steps,” he says.
After the preparation, which is the most elaborate and important step of the style, the structure is ready to be designed. He begins by tying up the hair with a firm-grip rubber band, placing it high or low depending on the amount of the client’s hair, then pinning small sections inside for internal structure.
“Always work in small sections, strand by strand,” Lemes says. “After curling, tousle the curl, spray it with a working spray, and fasten it with small hairpins into the ponytail base.” This, he says, creates support for surface detailing.
Once you start working with the rest of the hair for what will ultimately be the final silhouette and shape, switch to working with regular-sized hair pins. “You can use fewer pins when working with these sections since you have the internal functional small pins,” he says. “As a bonus, the hairstyle gets lighter because it will not weigh on the head and you will pin exactly the points you need.”
While handling the hair, work with a defrizzing or dry cream, like Inoar Professional Thermoliss Defrizzing Balm, on your fingers to help combat frizz. Rub the product on the palms of hands to warm it up, then work strand-by-strand.
“You end up polishing each strand as you work,” he says. “The hairstyle will get shinier, in addition to beating frizz.”
Before she leaves your chair, it’s important to teach your client how to undo the ‘do.
“Advise your client how remove the pins and take down the hair to avoid damage,” he says. “Tell her, after taking out all the pins, to use a hydrating conditioner to loosen the hair and remove product residue. Then, tell her to wash her hair, rinse and use a hydrating mask, like Inoar Professional Absolut Daymoist.”
He recommends clients then use a leave-in conditioner and comb with caution to avoid potential breakage.