Makeover by Carissa Castiglia (@colorbymisscariss)

Makeover by Carissa Castiglia (@colorbymisscariss)

Thick hair? Previous color? Gray throughout?

Some color challenges are more difficult than others, but this new client to the Eva Scrivo Salons and Academy in NYC came to the right place! Master colorist Carissa Castiglia (@colorbymisscariss) was eager to bring her client to her desired result of a low maintenance highlighted blonde. Balayage, a signature area of expertise at the salon, was the answer.

Here Castiglia shares the details for the correction and new look – followed by a tasteful cut by Eva Scrivo, using her signature Concave Layering technique, a skill taught at the academy.

STEP 1: Mix Goldwell Silklift and 30 volume. Section the front away from the back, begin highlighting in the nape.

STEP 2: Lowlight every other section in back only using L’Oréal Professionnel Richesse 7.30 and 9 volume.

STEP 3:  Use baby-lights in the crown of the head to blend gray. Move to the front sections, take sections diagonally back away from the face using wider panels for coverage.

STEP 4: Process for 40 minutes. Rinse, shampoo and towel dry.

STEP 5: Glaze with 9/01 L’Oréal Professionnel Richesse + 9 volume for 10 minutes. Condition. Rough dry to 50% and smooth using a Mason Pearson brush. 

STEP 6: Begin by cutting the hair, using classic bob line with a shear, working in 1/4 inch sub sections.

STEP 7: Create a soft layering pattern with an inversion to balance thickness within the hair and to redistribute weight.

STEP 8: Blend layers into the back section, then begin cutting a side swept fringe. Connect fringe into face frame guideline.

Maggie Mulhern

Maggie Mulhern

Beauty and Fashion Director, MODERN SALON

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