Arda Itez, National Director of Education Lakme USA, was teaching a fantasy color melt class and had the pleasure to find this gentleman in her chair. "As handsome as he was," says Itez, "he needed to be a bit more polished. I love fantasy color on women but I feel it can be tricky with men...it has to be the right shade. Fortunately, I think Jay wears these particular tones beautifully."
For Itez there was a bit of a challenge. "His hair was very compromised from all of the bleaching and previous color. I had to choose the path of least resistance when deciding on his look. He had a large amount of level 5 regrowth plus lightened ends. I decided to deepen his base, use ammonia free cream toners to give him depth on his midshaft and ends and then color melt with two different shades- steely blue and vivid violet."
Here Itez shares the HOW TO:
All color by LAKME:
Step 1: Apply to base: Gloss - 40 grams 3/00, 5 grams 1/00 mixed with 90 grams of 6 volume developer
Step 2: Apply to midshaft - 20 grams Kblonde Silver toner mixed with 40 grams 6 volume developer
Step 3: Apply to ends - 20 grams Kblonde Pearl toner mixed with 40 grams 6 volume developer
Step 4: Process for 30 minutes then shampoo and towel dry.
Step 5: In two separate bowls mix:
Formula 1- Collage 20 grams Silver mixtone 0/02, 5 grams Blue mixtone 0/70, 5 grams 10/17, 2 grams 1/00, 10 grams 0/00 mixed with 63 grams of 10 volume developer.
Formula 2- Gloss 20 grams 0/20 Violet mixtone, 20 grams 8/22, 5 grams 5/22 mixed with 90 grams 6 volume developer.
Step 6: Apply blue formula to midshaft and violet formula to ends. Be careful not to overlap the color but be generous in the application. Work from the back of the head to the front with foil and fine sections.
Step 7: With a third, clean brush, feather the color where both tones meet to create a "melting" effect, making sure the line of demarcation is thoroughly saturated so you don't have translucency. Cover each section with foil without folding, but sandwiching.
Step 8: Process for thirty minutes. Rinse, shampoo and condition.