Color correction by Katelynd Curtis.
Color correction by Katelynd Curtis.

This client has been bright blonde for years,” says Katelynd Curtis (@hairbykatelynd) of the JESS Salon, Gilbert, Arizona. “The last year or so she’s been getting an all over bleach retouch. Recently I did an all over permanent color and then pulled the color through the ends. It's been 6 weeks since and she hated her brassy mushy blonde.”

Here Curtis shares the details for this correction, combining a base, babylights, teasy-lights, balayage and proper toning:

STEP 1: Babylight with Goldwell Silk Lift + B3 and 20 volume developer.

STEP 2: Apply base color and pull down between foils using Goldwell Colorance 7NA+6A equal parts. 

STEP 3: Tease out and balayage ends with Goldwell Silk Lift Gentle + B3 and 20 volume developer. Rinse out sections once processed.

STEP 4: Tap at the bowl with Goldwell Colorance 7NA+8G.

STEP 5: Tone with Redken Shades EQ 9V+9P, equal parts

TIPS FOR GETTING RID OF BRASSY SHADES:

-Don’t pull foils if they aren’t pale yellow yet ( unless the hair is looking to fragile) 

-Use blue and green base colors to counter act the red and orange

-If your client is a level 9, tone with a level 9, don’t tone with a level 10 (it won’t be strong enough!)

Maggie Mulhern

Maggie Mulhern

Beauty and Fashion Director, MODERN SALON

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