How-To: Magical Melt

by Maggie Mulhern | March 15, 2019
Hair color makeover by Nicole Graftner (@hairbynicoleg)
Hair color makeover by Nicole Graftner (@hairbynicoleg)

Nicole Graftner (@hairbynicoleg), a freelance artist based at 6 Chester Avenue. Bogo Beauty Toronto, Ontario Canada , wowed us with this makeover. We had to know more and Graftner shares the details:


Emily, my guest came in for her complimentary consult (which I insist on for all new clients ) at the end of October 2018 . 

We discussed her hair history and series of previous balayage sessions which unfortunately left her hair color not where she wanted it. 


Natural level 3, 7-8 “ regrowth, mids at a level 6 orange/red. Ends - some  areas had been left compromised due to previous lightening to a level 9, some were her natural level 3, the majority was a level 7 


To lift everything evenly for an even canvas by navigating through all the different levels of natural and artificial color to lift everything evenly to the same level at the ends/mids.  Emily wanted a Balayage ombré effect. My goal was to get her mids to a 7/8 and ends to a 8/9.

She was totally understanding  and knew I couldn’t be too aggressive during the lightening process so this session was more about creating an even, blended look while maintaining the integrity of the hair. 


Prepare 2 separate bowls of Schwarzkopf Blondme lightener 

1 bowl with 30 volume - for zone 1/2 as well as the natural level 3 in between in zone 3

1 bowl with 15 volume - for the majority of her level 7 in zone 3

Begin at the nape in a bricklay pattern – combine diagonal  and horizontal 1/4” wide sections in a chunky weave. Backcomb then isolate in foils. 

The pieces that were already at a level 9 and compromised were left out but mids balayaged to blend. Work up to the crown in this manner.

Sides -

Diagonal back 1/4” sections beginning at the ear/ hairline. Once again navigating through the level 7, level 3 and random level 9 pieces. 

Each section was woven, backcombed and painted alternating with the 2 separate bleach mixtures. Last 3 sections on either side of her natural part at the top of the head were a very fine backcombed and painted weave. 

Babylight the faceframe.

Return to the nape. Work up the head. All foils are re-opened and checked. In some cases bleach and 20 volume was re-applied.

Process for 1 hour. 

Lift ends to a level 9 , zone 1/2 to a level 7/8

Shampoo and apply a cocktail of conditioner and Joico porosity equalizer.  Rinse and towel dry.

Pre-tone with Guy Tang MyDentity Rapid Toner,  Pearl and 6 volume. Process for 5 minutes. 

Shampoo, condition, towel dry. 


Zone 1 to 2 dragging down 1” in front to 6” inches in back in a teardrop shape using

Schwarzkopf Igora and 7 volume - 6-12, 10g  8-11 10g , 6-1  7g , 0-22 2g  

Zone 2 to 3  Vibrance and 6 volume, 8-11 15g , clear 5g , 3g 8-19, 5g 9.5-1 

Process for 15 minutes.

Apply Olaplex step 2 for 10 minutes under the dryer. Wash and style.  

Total time 7 hours 

This Silver Stunner was Created Using a Toning Shampoo


This Silver Stunner was Created Using a Toning Shampoo

by Mary Kaleta

Gone are the days where silver hair is something to hide; now, it's not only embraced, but it's also requested! Clients of all ages are seeing the benefits of shiny, healthy hair with a silver hue, and artists such as Leigha Lane turn to Milk_Shake to make their clients' dreams a reality.

Your client is living her best summer with this pink hologram creation. It’s by @archieco_​...

How-To: Summer-Loving Pink Hologram

by Staff

Summer-loving hair color look from Archie & Co in Adelaide, Australia. The entire design was created with staino, a range of 10 intense direct dyes (plus Clear) from evo fab pro.

Find out why over 400,000 subscribers love our newsletters

Makeover by Daisy Goord.


Great Formulation For BIG BLONDE Results

by Maggie Mulhern

Daisy Goord was excited when her new client came to her with a color “that wasn’t a million miles from where she wanted to be. YES it was too warm and YES it wasn’t lifted high enough, but there are several easy tweaks to make to hit her bright blonde goal.” Details for the makeover here.


In our video section, watch salon professionals in action, listen to the advice of salon business experts, and tour inside the world’s top salons.

Load More