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Grace Scott (@_style_with_grace) a Colorist/Stylist at Eva Scrivo Salons NYC, says “This new client came to me with a box dyed, brassy hair. Truly a nightmare. I knew this makeover needed to be done thoughtfully to achieve her desired goal of being a bright, cool toned blonde.” Scott points out that when working with heavily saturated red/orange pigment, the greatest challenge is evenly lightening the hair to a level 9 or 10. “But most importantly, I wanted to maintain the health and integrity of each and every strand.”

Here Scott shares the details for her process:

STEP 1: Spray equalizing solution to even out the porosity of the hair. Apply L’Oréal Professionnel Richesse 8.1 all over the hair. Process for 15 minutes to neutralize the existing brass from the box dye as much as possible. Rinse and rough dry.

STEP 2: Divide the hair with an ear to ear part. Split the back in two sections down the middle and leave a triangle section at the crown. Section out the front sides and create a mohawk section from recession to recession.

STEP 3: Apply back to back foils using Silk Lift by Goldwell and 30 volume developer throughout the entirety of the hair, using a fine weave technique leaving little hair in between foils to ensure solid coverage. (PRO TIP: Top mohawk section applied diagonally over the part to make sure highlights lay soft and don’t appear “stripey”. )

STEP 4: Lift highlights to level 10. Rinse each section as it processes to avoid the risk of over processing the hair.

STEP 5: Glaze with a level 10 ash using Color Touch by Wella. Process for five minutes or until desired tone was achieved.