Cassandra Marie Bartosch (@hairbycassandramarie) of Salon Marcé, Rochester, NY, says her new client came in with seemingly routine hair at a level 5 base to level 7 faded ends. “Upon further consultation we discovered that she was previously blonde just six months ago and applied a 6N over her hair and the faded-out ends are the result of the blonde showing through. She also had some regrowth of a few grays she would like to blend away. Her goal is to get back to a beige bright blonde with low maintenance grow out.”
Bartosch’s game plan was to keep the process as clean and strategic as possible by lifting and melting the brighter highlights first and then tackling the gray blending and toning at the same time after. Because of the goal and that her client has above average density and thickness, “I let her know that this will be a multiple step process.”
Here Bartosch shares the details for the first visit:
STEP 1: Alternating balayage with a foilage technique (teased highlights in foils) in a bricklayer pattern, apply Goldwell Oxycur Platin 20 volume at her darker root area where she hadn’t been previously lightened.
STEP 2: In the same foil apply Silk lift Control Ash and Silk Lift Strong equal parts 20 volume to protect the integrity of the hair “as well as help fight the brass I knew we would be encountering.” Process for approximately 25-30 minutes. Shampoo and towel dry.
STEP 3: To tone, apply to the root Goldwell Cover Plus Colorance lotion formula: 30mls 5N@BP, 10mls 4nn, 80mls pink lotion. While processing, apply the overall toner for her lightened panels using 10mls 10BS, 10mls 10V, 10mls 8BP, 10mls 9N with Blue Colorance lotion. Process at room temperature for 25 minutes. Shampoo and condition the hair.
“We can’t wait for round two to go even lighter!”