The Midlight Technique by @colorbymattrez
“In color correction scenarios, we often see a harsh line of demarcation between darker, cooler regrowth and brassy, previously lightened ends,” says Beverly Hills-based Redken Ambassador Matt Rez, (@colorbymattrez). “Stylists may correct this using multiple steps—a base bump to lift and highlights to blend— resulting in unwanted warmth and more harsh regrowth a few months later.” To make things easier and faster, Rez developedThe Midlight technique, which involves creating a connecting color that falls between the darkest tone (usually the base) and the lightest tone (usually the highlight) in the hair.
Ideally, a midlight is:
• Warmer in tone and no more than 2 levels lighter than the base color
• Warmer in tone and no more than 2 levels darker than the highlight color
“The Midlight acts as a targeted base bump, providing minimal lift with intentional warmth, while maintaining some of the base color and adding highlights in one step.”
HIGHLIGHT FORMULA 1:
15 g Flash Lift Bonder Inside
1oz. (30 ml) 20 Volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer
MIDLIGHT FORMULA 2:
2oz. (60 ml) Chromatics Clear
2 oz. (60 ml) 20 Volume Chromatics Oil-in-Cream Developer
LOWLIGHT FORMULA 3:
2 oz. (60 ml) Shade EQ Cream 05WB
2 oz. (60 ml) 10 Volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer
MIDLIGHT FORMULA 4:
2 oz. (60 ml) Shades EQ Gloss 06N
2 oz. (60 ml) Shades EQ Processing Solution for Precision Application
1 oz. (30 ml) Shades EQ Gloss 09N 1 oz. (30 ml) Shades EQ Gloss 09G
1 oz. (30 ml) Shades EQ Gloss 08GG
3 oz. (60 ml) Shades EQ Processing Solution
THE PROCESS/ Sectioning and Application
- Starting at the top of the section, use a regular stitch to weave out the strands to be highlighted. Once complete, isolate out of the way with a clip.
- Without leaving any hair between sections, begin directly underneath the previous section and use the same stitch pattern to isolate a Midlight section. Then, clip and secure Midlight section away separately.
- If lowlighting or extending the base color through Zones 2–3, beginning directly underneath the Midlight section, use a regular stitch and select the section to be lowlighted. Place foil underneath section and apply Lowlight Formula. Once complete, fold and secure the foil.
- Once lowlight section is complete, release the previously isolated Midlight section and place foil underneath. Apply Midlight Formula and saturate completely, then fold and secure the foil.
- Then drop down the highlight section and place foil underneath. Apply Highlight Formula, then fold and secure the foil.
- Process at room temperature for 35 minutes. Shampoo with Redken Extreme and apply Redken Chemistry for 5 min. Dry hair.
- Using a global application, apply Gloss Formula. Process for 20 minutes at room temperature, then rinse, shampoo and condition with Redken Color Extend Magnetics.
"Most of the photos people love are of multi-dimensional and multi-tonal color."--Redken Ambassador Matt Rez
Pricing: Charge for an extra single process service in addition to your standard foiling fee to account for extra product and time without over burdening your client’s wallet.
Consultation: Take time to have a proper consultation. Be honest with your client about what is possible.
“Today, all these different looks are floating around on Pinterest and Instagram,” Rez says. “When a client brings in an inspiration photo, I ask them to really look at it and tell me, what do you like about this color? What part of that photo is catching your eye? I ask them to really zoom in on the area they like. We determine if it’s really the color or if it’s the lighting in the photo or exposure or even glare and if this is even reality. Most of the photos people love are of multi-dimensional and multi-tonal color.That’s why I came up with Midlights, to give that glossy effect and that depth and different tones."
Ensure a Return: Color corrections often involve 2+ visits to reach the client's desired result. Be sure to improve your client’s hair by at least 70% in the first visit to win your client’s trust.
Maintenance: Always gloss between foiling appointments to keep tone on point. Prescribe a sulfate-free care regimen such as Color Extend Magnetics Nature+Science for color maintenance, and a color depositing shampoo such as Color Extend Blondage for fending off brass.
“With color corrections, you have all this warmth from the past and brass is always an issue. All my clients use Blondage Shampoo and Conditioner, plus a maks, at home to keep that down. Blondage not only helps with the color but it actually adds moisture back into blonde hair.
"Extreme Play Safe Leave-In Conditioner is also really great. It has a heat protectant and it’s also repairing while heat styling. A lot of products just cover the cuticle but it’s this actually helps repair."
Visit Redkenpro.com to see a full technique video complete with step-by-steps.
For reprint and licensing requests for this article, Click here.