In this before and after, Martin’s client traveled from San Francisco seeking a gray/silver color to blend and match her natural gray roots so she can stop coloring her hair.
“The total service time was 12 hours, and I can say that was the hardest project I have ever done in my whole career,” Martin says. “Her ends were extremely dark and it took me forever to lighten it but I had to choose between reaching my goal with damaged results and reaching a blended blonde with healthier hair and, like you see, I choose the second option.”
Martin began the long process by cutting the hair to a semi A-line bob with layers.
“I always believe in building the house then painting it,” he says. “Then I started removing the artificial dye using Pravana color extractor twice for 20 minutes each process, then lightened the whole head starting from where her gray roots start.”
He began working in foils by taking very thin sections using Oligo Pro with 20-volume combined with Olaplex for 4 total hours.
“After the first hour and a half, I opened each foil and applied a new lightener mixture on the warm areas until I reached the lightest pale blonde.” He says. “I rinsed the hair, pre-toned with Redken Shades EQ 1/2 oz 9V + 1/2 oz 9B + 1 oz clear mixed with 2 oz processing solution for 20 minutes.”
He then rinsed again, dried the hair to 70%, and applied Wella’s pale platinum mixed with 6-volume developer and brass kicker applied on the whole hair, only leaving her natural roots out for 30 minutes. He finished with Olaplex Number 2 for 20 minutes to reconstruct the hair, shampooed, style with round brushes.
For more information on how Martin transforms his clients, plus his tips on maintaining the transformations, check out 10 Times Jack Martin Colorist Helped His Clients Go Gray.