THE FIX: From Too Warm To Icy Hot

Janel Latessa (@hairbyjanellatessa), owner/master stylist at JL Hair Artistry, Mayfield Heights, Ohio, has been taking this client on quite the journey. “She was silver for years. She wanted to save money and had her friend add some ‘warmth.’ Needless to say, she returned to me and is now booked through 2020.”

Here Latessa shares the details for this gentle correction:

STEP 1: Start in lower back hairline taking baby fine weaves in small sections. “Small sections are essential because you need extreme lift and saturation to achieve a white blonde/ash blonde. If the sections are too large, brass and uneven saturation is possible.” Color used: Lakmé K-blonde 20 volume, with Lakmé I plex added.

STEP 2:  Save the face frame for last to prevent over-processing and breakage. A power highlight, or glam highlight is placed at the front in three back to back foils. Foils used: Product Club. “They sent me the new smooth durable foil that is thicker and seals in heat. It’s amazing and doesn’t tear and the processing time is almost cut in half.”

STEP 3: At the shampoo bowl, remove each foil separately and blend up lightener between your pointer and middle finger, blending up to the root to remove any yellow near the top of the foil where the previous orange band was strong. 

STEP 4: Pre-tone with the Fanola No Orange shampoo for five minutes. Towel dry the hair.

STEP 5: Tone with Lakmé Pearl/0/00 for 5 minutes.